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Hendrik Thoma, chef and sommelier Sommelier at the elegant Louis C. Jacob restaurant in Hamburg, Hendrik Thoma started out as a chef before going to become a wine waiter. Hendrik Thoma's background as both a chef and a wine waiter gives him a special advantage when it comes to recommending wine and food matches. Of course, wine and food combinations undergo subtle variations according to the vintage. The older the vintage, the more the dish should be delicate and full of nuances. Hendrik Thoma recommends game (birds and animals with slightly earthy taste) to accompany an old vintage of Chteau Palmer. On the other hand, a young Chteau Palmer, like the 95, calls for a rib of beef or venison with a more pronounced meaty taste. Furthermore, beef offers all sorts of surprising possibilities with fine wine. Hendrik Thoma very much likes braised beef, a German favourite. Surprisingly, this somewhat rustic dish is ideal with a fine wine like Palmer. What do they share in common? The terroir. Cooked with excellent local produce of the highest quality, properly prepared braised beef reflects the best of an outstanding terroir in the same way as a grand vin. Our chef applies the same, very French, notion of "cru" to the pairing of a rustic dish and a great wine. There is always a great deal of pleasure to be found in drinking a bottle of Chteau Palmer - from either a famous or less-reputed vintage. Hendrik Thoma says that, although he particularly appreciates 61, 70, and 83 Palmer, he has a soft spot for vintages that do not share quite the same acclaim. Nothing pleases him more at present than 97 Palmer, which he finds as delicious in its own way as the 61. He also feels the 67 is a "stunning" wine and that 62 Palmer is indeed great. Provocation? No, just the reflection of a simple philosophy: the best wines are the ones enjoyed at their peak. Hendrik Thoma is not only a man of good taste, but also one with eclectic tastes. He combines words with the same subtle assurance he uses to match food and wine to create harmonious flavours and aromas that are the quintessence of the finest European terroirs. |